- 4 wheel drum brakes or front disc brakes with rear drum brakes
- The weight of the car
- Single or dual master cylinder (You on want a dual MC)
- from the front outlet of the MC to intake port of the valve
- from the rear outlet of MC to the rear port of the valve
- from the rear outlet port of the valve port of the rear brakes
- from the front valve outlet to the front brakes
- the other front outlet port to the other front brake
|Dual Master Cylinder|
|This is not how the plumbing is done as described in the blog but gives you some idea of how to plumb the brake lines.|
- Remove the old brake line that connects the old MC to the brass block connector on the drivers side, Throw it away.
- Remove the line that runs from the brass block connector on the frame to the flexible brake hose for the LEFT block connector where the line was attached
- At the brass block connector on the passenger side frame, disconnect the brake line that takes the fluid to the rear brakes. Install a brass pug in the brass connector where this line was connected. Carefully, bent the line so if points upward and flush with the firewall. I don’t know it that is what I want to do, I may run another way.
- Instal the booster while slipping the pushrods in place.
- As explained in the first blog; http://www.texasclassicchevyexperience.com/2015/11/tri-five-late-model-power-booster.html adjust the rods usually about ⅛” longer by turning he check nut on the rod. This adjustment is done by feel. You want to push out making contact with the piston cup in the MC. Hold the rod so it will not turn and re-tighten the check nut. This adjustment is made while working under the dash or as in the last blog when the brake assembly harness in a vice.
- Connect the proportioning valve to its bracket. Use lock washers, and tighten
- I suggest using number 8 or 10 bare copper electrical wire as a guide before bending brake lines. And, if you need to, practice double flaring brake tubes.
- You will make 2 or use 2 new lines connecting MC to the valve. These two lines will have 4 brass fittings. 3 of them are different and the fittings are hard to find. I bought the whole set up bent and flared off evilBay. 1 tube is ¼” and the other is 3/16”.
- Install the 3/16” tube from the forward prot of the MC to the front port of the valve. Invertibility, made or bough,t you will have to custom fit them to make a good looking or functional connection
- The line in step 4 will carry brake fluid to the right caliper.
- Using a 30” section of tubing bend and and fit it from the brass block connector along the frame between the “A” arm and steering box and then up the to valve. Cut off the excess tubing. Remember to put on the flair nuts then double flair the tube. The brass block connector will not be located in the same place you will have to custom engineered and fit to your specifications.
- Bend and install the 3/16” brake line from the front port, it’s the one situated at a 45 degree angle on the front of the valve to the flexible brake hose which is clamped into place on the left side of the frame. That line carries brake fluid to the left caliper. No cutting or double flaring involved with this line.
- Now for the last line. Install a line to carry brake fluid from the back of the valve to the rear brakes using a 3/16” tube from the rear outlet port tube that you bent up the rewall in step.
- You will need a union fitting to connect these two pieces of 3/16” tubing together.
- I don’t know about this next pipe installation. Denny Williams bent his over the top of the fire wall besides where the wires on a stock Tri-five travel. I have not seen it done that way, that I know of, I think I will find another way to run the valve, but I hope you get the idea.
- Now all hooked tightly together the system is ready to bleed. I have read in other posts to bench bleed the MC before installing. Bleed the entire system.
|Bleeder and Vacuum pump|
- William, Denny. "Late Model Power Brake Booster Conversion." Classic Chevy World Sept. 1984: 5-17. Print.